I am practicing now how to stitch.Really I am very happy and passing time peacefully after my retirement from job nearly three years ago I took VRS (Voluntarily Retirement Scheme) from Biman Bangladesh Airlines.
I search learning tutorials from Internet everyday.There are lots of web pages about stitching process .Now something I want to share with everybody articles , designs, styles,pattern , beads,
different types of stitch.
ATURDAY, MAY 24, 2008
Zardosi Embroidery of Uttar Pradesh and Surat
Surat in Gujarat and Varansi and Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh are the main centers for gold and silver embroidery; popularly known as Zardosi work a persian tream for gold embroidery.In the 19th century two distinct types of gold embroidery predominated:
- Zardosi - heavy laid work upon velvet, satin or heavy silk.
- Kamdani - light and delicated work in gold and silver plated threads and spangles upon very fine muslin or silk, with the help of aari hook ( tambour ) creating a delicated chain like effect.Material used in olden days were real gold and silver flatted strips and thread plated with the precious metals, pearls, reals and semiprecious stones, beetles wing eases, leather etc. Now to make it affordable immigration material is being used. Sequins, glass beads, bullion or salma a very thin metal wire tubularly twisted, gold cords and silk floss is used. Fabric used are silk, velvet, Georgette, chiffon, muslin, organza, net and some polyester blends. Designs and motifs are mostly floral and birds and animals, like parrot, peacock, elephant and camels are seen sometimes. Stitches are Stem, Satin, Long and short, Beading, Couching and a chain like stitch with different spacing, done with the aari hook.
This is the most popular embroidery used by the top most designers for embellishing fineries for special occasions.
SATURDAY, MAY 17, 2008
Embroidery of Chinai
There was a community of Chinese embroiderers living in Surat. South of Gujarat, who produced work that was completely Chinese in both designs and technique, specially for the Parsee market. Their embroidery was known as ' China work'. Embroidery was done using fine floss silk and tightly spun two ply silk, imported from China specially for 'Gara work'. Now four strands of silk thread, twisted together or rayon thread is used.
Motifs of flowers and birds, inter connecting, predominantly in off white, against a dark background were most common in this form.
Stitches used in Chinai work are Satin, Long and short, Chinese knot, Pekinese, Stem, Double stem and Zardosi work embroiderers in Surat, Kolkatta and Mumbai are embellishing many priced outfits.
Chikankari of Lucknow
Chikan work is similar to the white work of the Western countries. This embroidery seems to be a gift of the Mughals to India, also there are several other myths as for the origin of this dainty art. Originally this embroidery was done using white untwisted cotton or silk thread on very fine white fabric like muslin or silk. Now voile, organdy and terry voile are also used and twisted cotton or raron thread is used for embroidery. Now Chikan work has become very popular in India. So many artifacts like table linen, hankerchifs, saris, salwar kameez, dupatta, gents Indian ethnic wear, shirts etc. are embroidered by the woven of Awadh.
Designs are mainly of scrolling floral or leafy patterns, when embroidered, creating a shadoo- like effect on larger flower motifs and raised effect when smaller motifs are worked.
Stitches used are six basic stitches, which are used in combination with a series of some other stitches, to create a fascinating and delicated effects. Shadow work- Herringbone stitch or Appiqu'e done on the wrong side to give a shadow effect. Buttonhole, very fine satin stitch called murri work is very typical of Chikan work; Cretan, Stem stitch and Pullwork and Khatao or Darazdar- an appliqu'e technique is worked upon to complete the repertoire. Some other stitches used are Chain, Couching, Whip running and Roumanian.
Kashida of Kashmir
Jammu and Kashmir lies in the foot hills of the Himalayas. The beautiful vally of Kashmir is famous, largely, through the exquisitely embroidered Showls because of its unmatched workmanship on intricate traditional patterns.
The beautiful( local costume) , Salwar Kameez, Saris, Men's ethnic wear, Ponchoes, Coats, Wall hangings, Carpets and Bed linen are also embroidered using several embroidery techniques. Fabrics used for different articles are pashina, ruffle ( ordinary wool fabric) , silk, leather, some polyester blends and hand loom cloth.
Embroidery thread used on pashmina Shawl is very finely spun pashmina and locally spun untwisted silk. For most of the other things, staple yarn is used but for crewel embroidery on curtains, bed linen and carpets, slightly thicker but soft, wool yarn is used.
Designs are mainly used floral, of sprawling creepers. common motifs are China leave (maple) , Aamli ( mango) , Badam ( almond) , plum and cherries and flower motifs of rose, Irish, tulip, apple, blossom and cherries blossom. Sometime birds and animals motifs are also used.
There are three main techniques and some have evolved recently-
Sozni and Rezkari: It is mainly done on Shawls using single strand and sometime double strand of silk or fine pashmina floss. The stitches are open chain, open stem, couching, fly, buttonhole and herringbone stitch locally known as Kashmiri stitch.
Aari hook embroidery: It is also known as crewel work, is done using a thick aari hook applying wool or staple yarn.
Zardoshi or Couching : It is done mainly on Shawls and ethnic out fits.
Panjabi Phulkari
Pulkari is flower work, mainly done on Shawls, worn with a tight fitting choli( blouse) andghaghara( long skirt). This was the traditional costume of the rural women of the this region.
Fabric used for this embroidery art is thick hand woven cotton(Khaddar) ; usually in rich earth red or indigo blue. Thread used in this embroidery is thick untwisted flass silk, mainly in yellow, orrange and white, with small accent in green or other colors.
Stitch used is simple and akin to the Damask stitch.
The motifs are embroidered from the reverse side of a thread outline, particularly in the case of chape or Bagh designs. Only one thread is taken up with each pick of the needle, leaving a long stitch below to from the pattern on the right side, each stitch being not more than 1/4th" long.
In addition stitches, double running or chain stitch is used from the outline of figures of birds animals and human, which are then filled in with darning or satin stitch. Satin and stem stitch is used on Phulkari borders and blanket or buttonhole stitch for finishing the edges.
Motifs of Phulkari and Bagh are mostly made up of horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches producing geometrical floral patterns as the name itself implies.
Kasuti, Embroidery of Karnatka
Kasuti embroidery belongs to the Karnatka district of Mysore state situated on the Western southern part of India. It is a highly developed embroidery, representing the art and culture of the Karnatka. Embroidery is done using cotton and silk thread, in colors which harmonize with the background cloth. In this embroidery, precision and neatness is must in Kashida.
Motifs used are Parrots, Peacocks, Deers, Elephants, Nandi( sacred bull), Squirrel and some house hold outfits like Cradle, Rattle, Flower pot and Tulsi vrindavan( basil potted in a decorative pot). One will rarely see horse, lines or tiger. The lotus theme is dominant.
There are four different names for the stitches used in Kasuti-
Gavant: Double running stitch which is worked in horizontal, vertical and diagonal direction.
Muri: Zig- zag running stitch which appears likes steps of ladder.
Nagi: It also known as Darning or weaving stitch, because it has an overall effect of a woven design. This stitch is used for longer designs. In this style wrong side is different.
Menthi: It is ordinary cross stitch. Generally it has a heavy appearance, hence is not so popular.
MONDAY, MAY 12, 2008
Gujarati and Rajsthani embroidery
Gujarat and the princely state of Rajasthan on the western side of India and sindh in Pkistan, are the richest source of folk embroidery. A community of cobblers called Mochi embroidered different articles for export as well as local market. Mochi embroidery was done using aari hook(Tambour). This embroidery is very popular now, specially for leather articles, wall hangings and cusion covers etc. Bright color threats of cotton or twisted and untwisted rayon is used. The colors are red, parrot green, sun yellow, blue, shocking pink, mergenta, black and white on white, marroon or black background.
In a particular style gold or silver plated thread is also used. Other materials used are mirrors, glass beads, metal plates, buttons and shells. Designs are mythological, specially depicting Krishna's stories, perrots, paecocks, birds, elephants, camels. Stitches used are open chain, herring bone, cretan, back running, variations of feather and fly, satin, sisha and some other native stitches.
SUNDAY, MAY 11, 2008
Kantha embroidery
Old undivided Bengal on the Eastern side of India has an ancient textile tradition. Kantha quilts of Bengal are world famous and is a folk art executed by the women of this region for use as a winter covering or for ceremonial use. Kantha are done in two round. First the layered cloth is worked using very small running stitch creating a ripple like effect, using the same colored threads as the fabric. In the second round motifs are transferred on the quilted surface and working with colored threads varied designs are embroidered. This technique is called Nakshi Kantha. Threads used now, are mainly unbleached cotton yarn and Anchor skeins.
Designs and motifs, originally embroidered were several petal lotus creepers, mythological figures and stories, articles used for day to day need, animals like elephant, deer, snake, fish, peacock, parrot etc. Now best of the designers are creating many modern and new designs wring the same technique, colors - like red, yellow, green and blue are being replaced by contemporary color schemes.
Designs and motifs, originally embroidered were several petal lotus creepers, mythological figures and stories, articles used for day to day need, animals like elephant, deer, snake, fish, peacock, parrot etc. Now best of the designers are creating many modern and new designs wring the same technique, colors - like red, yellow, green and blue are being replaced by contemporary color schemes.
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